Last night, B and I headed to the
W Hotel for a dinner date night. We were excited to try out
Market by Jean-Georges, which has been open for about three weeks now and this was the first opportunity we had to check it out.
It was a rainy night and we arrived at the W Hotel a few minutes late for our 7 PM reservation. We entered through the hotel lobby entrance and walked by the W Bar on our way to Market. Wow. It was only 7 PM but the place was filled with the usual Euro-trash, cougar
clientele. This is the same crowd that took over Alibi, which was once one of my favorite bars. I was not impressed. But since this is the new hot spot in town, I rolled my eyes and headed into the restaurant.
We checked in with the hostesses. One hostess took our coats while the other host went to check on our table. Although the restaurant was busy, we saw quite a few tables for two open. Yet they insisted on clearing and setting a new table, which was very odd. After several minutes, we were seated in an enclosed area near the front of the house. We were seated without menus and we sat for quite a few minutes with no water and no menus. Again, odd. We took the time to appreciate the scene - high ceilings and modern clean lines. The short stone vase with a daisy seemed off but I liked the atmosphere. After a few minutes, our server (who would turn out to be our main server) greeted us with our menus.
B and I started out with a drink as we looked over our menus. I chose a sparkling rose while B had a cocktail consisting of bourbon, passion fruit mix and ginger ale. The menu had a lot of different items that seemed intriguing, so we decided to go with the tasting menu, which featured many of those items. One of the courses contained shellfish and B asked if that could be substituted. The server checked with the kitchen and said that this was not a problem and offered two different options for that course. We were off to a good start.
Another server came by the table with a bread basket. I chose the sourdough while B had the
multi grain. The bread was a generous slice and the sourdough was soft and doughy with a delicious crust. And then we started the delicious courses.
Our first course was a rice cracker crusted
ahi-tuna served with a
citrus chili emulsion. The rice cracker added a nice crunch to the tuna but the real star of the dish was the emulsion. The sauce was sweet from the citrus but it left a small heat in its after taste, which is completely appropriate for a first course. The sauce contained chopped scallions, which really tied the entire dish together. I thought it was a great first course.
Our second course was a
foie gras brulee served a top a toasted brioche alongside a spiced fig jam. Although this wasn't the best
foie gras I've had, the
brulee and the spiced fig jam really made this dish memorable. The toasted brioche was a little disappointing though as mine was a bit too dark. B and I compared our respective brioches and his was definitely toasted to perfection. The burnt toast taste over powered the bite and the fig jam was used to really mask that.
At this point I finished my rose and switched to a nice glass of sweet
chenin blanc for the upcoming seafood courses.
For the third course, I had seared shrimp served with a silky pumpkin, ginger and basil emulsion and toasted pumpkin seeds. The shrimp had a nice spicy rub and was perfectly cooked. The combination of shrimp and pumpkin is not something that I would normally think would go well together but it was really outstanding. And the pumpkin seeds added a nice light crunch to the dish. For this course, B had a creamy butternut squash soup. I stole a bite and it was decadent in its creaminess. We both really enjoyed this course.
Our fourth course was a pan seared striped bass with a pureed nut crust, served in a sweet and sour broth with
lima beans, roasted grape tomatoes, circles of Yukon gold potatoes and pearl onions. This dish was really the worst of our tasting menu. On one hand, the fish was cooked perfectly. The skin was perfectly crisp with the crust while the meat was moist and succulent. But the broth was just way too salty. While I'm probably too salt-sensitive, B definitely agreed. Another big problem with this dish was the plating. Because of the broth, this was plated in a shallow bowl. However, this made the fish and vegetables difficult to cut and
maneuver. I was glad to see this plate go.
As I finished my
chenin blanc, I decided to try out the house soda of passion fruit and chili peppers. I ordered this, which the server raved about. But then he served me with what looked very similar to the same bourbon cocktail that B was drinking. I took a sip and realized that this was in fact not the soda. After flagging down the server, I told him that I thought this was a mistake, especially since it wasn't served in a tall soda glass. He told me that he was sure it was the soda but that he would check with the bar. It turned out that it was in fact B's cocktail. After some time, he brought over the soda, which was absolutely delicious. The soda was not overly sweet with the passion fruit but there was a pleasant kick in the end with the chili. The bourbon cocktail brought over by mistake was given to B.
We were then onto the next course - smoked chili glaze served atop a grilled lamb chop on a bed of king oyster mushrooms and broccoli
rabe. The glaze was phenomenal and something I wish they bottled. The lamb was cooked to a nice medium, but it was interesting because the server made a big point of stating that the chef recommended serving the lamp a medium-rare. We agreed but only B's was really a medium rare while mine was more cooked as a medium. The broccoli
rabe and mushrooms were delicious and a nice salty contrast (in a good way) to the lamb.
Our final course was a warm molten chocolate cake served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, shortbread crumbs and a chocolate plantain brittle. The dessert was nothing spectacular but it was done to perfection. The brittle was particularly memorable. I enjoyed the ice cream with the chocolate cake but since I'm not a big chocolate cake person, I only made a small dent in the cake.
Overall, the tasting menu was delicious but not perfect. I was impressed with the flavor combinations, especially the sweet and spicy emulsions. However, the burnt brioche, over-cooked lamb and over-salty fish were blatant errors.
While the errors in food is forgivable, the biggest problem with this restaurant was the number of servers on the floor. There were over a dozen servers and at least three managers on the floor, and they all seemed to stand on top of each other. I yearned for the days of old school service where the servers were attentive and there when you needed it, but otherwise invisible. And despite the number of servers, this service was seriously lacking. For instance, despite the interchangeable number of servers who re-filled our waters and cleared our plates, it was very difficult to flag down our actual server. In fact, none of these servers actually introduced or described our plates, which was a disappointment for a tasting menu. In addition, our plates took a long time to get cleared in between courses. In fact, when we had finished our fish course, the dirty dishes were left on the table for so long that another server brought out the lamb courses but the previous dishes hadn't been cleared. It was
embarrassing for them to have to remedy this.
Because Market has only been open for a few weeks, I'm willing to forgive the service errors. I will definitely return again but hopefully when they have sorted these issues out. In the meantime, I'll steer clear from there and the obnoxious
clientele pouring over from the W Bar.
xoxo